Wine & Champagne

About sense and taste. About my life.

星期四, 9月 01, 2005

老酒須知──ULLAGE


2004-04-08

Ullage是什麼?

假如你曾經在拍賣會上買過老酒,應該對此字不陌生。

Ullage,簡單地說,便是葡萄酒瓶未開時,其酒液的「耗損」。一瓶葡萄酒放久了以後,即使軟木塞仍緊密地貼著瓶身並毫無裂痕時,瓶內的葡萄酒仍然有可能會出現減少的現象,而這個現象便稱作「耗損」。

至於用來表示葡萄酒耗損程度的術語,是依葡萄酒於瓶頸肩的液面高低而定。

以下是常見的術語及其代表涵意:

bn. (bottom neck) – 瓶頸底部,此液面高度,對於任何年份的葡萄酒而言,都完全可接受。這樣的酒,通常可推測其出自於很良好的保存環境。

vts. (very top shoulder) – 瓶肩至高處,此液面高度,對於任何年份的葡萄酒而言,都完全可接受。這樣的酒,通常可推測其出自於適當的保存環境。

ts. (top shoulder) – 瓶肩高處,對於超過15年以上的葡萄酒,屬於常見的液面高度。這樣的酒,通常可推測其被陳放於適當的保存環境。

hs. (high shoulder) – 肩上端,一般來說,是因為經由軟本塞透出(蒸發),通常是不會有太大的問題。對於超過20年以上的葡萄酒,算是蠻正常的。不過,為了保險起見,最好察看一下酒色和澄清度,尤其在你無法確定保存是否良好時。

ms. (mid shoulder) – 肩中段,通常有可能是軟木塞萎縮所造成的變化。然而對於30年以上的葡萄酒而言,算是蠻正常的,但仍強烈建議要察看一下酒色和澄清度,以及軟木塞的狀況,尤其在你無法確定過去的保存環境是否良好時。

ls. (low shoulder) – 肩低處,酒質的不確定性更高,如果在拍賣前作鑑價時,評價會變低。這種酒,不太建議飲用。

bs. – (bottom shoulder) – 肩底處,酒質的不確定性非常高,如在拍賣會上,擁有這種液面高度的酒,通常是極為稀有或有趣的酒,但是鑑價也不高。而且,這種ullage耗損蠻有可能是保存不當所造成的。種類型的酒,恐怕不是拿來喝的,僅供收藏或瞻仰。

所以,買老酒,別忘 check 它的平井堅(瓶頸肩)!

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