Let's Krug it Up!

2003-04-14

今晚是一個難忘的Krug之夜，尤其對我們這群香檳迷來說，更是回味無窮。

早在上個月初號召的Krug品酒會，終於如期順利在今晚舉行。

三瓶特地從新加坡扛回來的Brut Rose Champagne NV、Brut Champagne 1988、Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1988終於在眾人千呼萬喚始開瓶。


今晚的酒單與菜單如下：
義式開胃冷盤
Brut Champagne Grand Cuvee Brut NV
炸什錦海鮮盤
Brut Rose Champagne NV
香濃紫芋培根湯
鮮黑松露鱈魚
Brut Champagne 1988
Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1988
燻鴨胸寬麵
1989 Rauzan-Segla
1983 Rauzan-Segla
芥茉子醬羊排
咖啡或紅茶
精緻甜點


地點選在服務與餐點在台北皆具水準之上的深庭Sabatini，在這兒，酒杯不會是你需要擔心的事情，對於我們這種吹毛求疪的酒客，實是上選之處。

一開始先從Krug的Brut Champagne Grand Cuvee Brut NV試起，這支Grand Cuvee是最近才釋出市場的，在剛開始酸度顯得較高，放一會兒後稍好一些，有蘋果和一些白花系的香氣，口感在回溫後變得較圓順，滋味也較為豐盛，不過，我覺得和我以前喝過的Grand Cuvee比較，以前的經驗是比較美好，這支Grand Cuvee其實是需要aging的，大概再擺個3~5年才會更棒。

第一道義式開胃冷盤有Anchovies, Salmon tartar, Pesto squid, Parma ham，這幾樣菜的口味都不淡，其實算頗重的，但是Grand Cuvee的味道完全沒有被壓過去，著實證明了這是一款濃郁且具有重量的香檳。我個人與酒友查理布朗、賈頌都認為Krug Grand Cuvee的實力是可超越不少其他品牌年份香檳。

隨著第一道菜的結束，我們接著開始享用Brut Rose Champagne NV，AA一聞Krug Rose就大呼小叫，直誇此酒好的不得了。我覺得Rose的細緻度是勝過Grand Cuvee，一開始有一些酵母味，再深吸一口，跑出焦糖混合乾燥玫瑰花的香氣，口感中帶有一種我覺得很像德國黑麵包的香氣，後段的尾韻很優雅精巧。不過價格不像酒本身那麼漂亮，真是有些可惜。

配合Krug Rose的是炸什錦海鮮盤，有炸小魚、炸花枝圈、炸蝦，雖然這海鮮上來後馬上變冷，但完全不影響其香酥脆皮在口中卡拉卡嗤的滋味，裏面包的海鮮是鮮嫩細幼，實在很讚，AA又情不自禁地邊吃邊嚷：「真是好吃、真是好吃。」

Sabatini的Joanne為我們配了一道很特別的湯，叫「香濃紫芋培根湯」。其實吃到這兒我已經覺得很飽了，因為香檳的氣泡讓人很快就會有飽足感，雖然湯很好喝，但實在無法喝完。看著Menu上還有一道前菜和兩道主菜，還是放下湯匙節制為好。突然，坐在我旁邊的AA拿起裝有Krug Rose的香檳杯說：「ㄟ…真是不錯耶！喝到後來真是有芋頭的味道。」我萬分不解的看著他說：「AA，你說的應該是湯吧！而不是Krug Rose？！」他很不好意思的放下杯子說：「是是…我說的是這湯。」唉～幫幫忙，如果Krug Rose有芋香，那不改叫Krug Taro？！賈頌忍不住笑說：「什麼芋頭？！我看你是豬頭勒！」大家喝的開心，互虧也不以為意。

我們決定讓Brut Champagne 1988和Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1988兩款香檳來作對比，搭配的菜色是查理布朗極力推薦的鮮黑松露鱈魚，這Brut Champagne 1988真是非常非常的棒，寬廣與深度間的關係是均衡完美，有很多礦石的香氣，而且似乎有一股海風吹拂過的感覺，啊～我聞到了堅果、烤麵包的香氣，入口則是花香與很fresh的果香，然後在酒液滑入喉後又升上一股像烘培過的堅果與烤麵包香，唉～可惜，這些香氣僅能收藏在記憶裏的盒子，僅供日後偶然想起，湧上心頭寥以慰藉之用。Clos du Mesnil的香氣較Brut 1988多了一些肥美豐腴，口感也多了一些烤奶油小餅乾味，對於初嚐香檳的人，多半都會很快愛上她。尾韻有迷人的toasty香氣環繞口中。鮮黑松露鱈魚的sauce是挺不錯，也還好有這sauce，讓just so so的鱈魚得以加分。不過這道菜是千萬不可和此二款香檳同時入口，激出來的鐵樹銀花可是讓味蕾不甚好受。單純品嚐她們的美麗才是上策。

或許是微醺帶來的張力吧～大家開始將女人來與酒作對比，我說Brut Champagne '88像是張曼玉，Ｍ.馬上反駁說：「怎麼會？！'88這麼細緻，張曼玉一點都不細緻。」身為Maggie擁護者當然不甘勢弱：「'88強的是深度與複雜度，張曼玉就是這樣，而且很有味道。」不過，張曼玉真的不細緻嗎？！那紅姑呢？Amy提到了鍾楚紅，不過，好像無法和這裏的香檳對上呢！唉～紅姑呀！紅姑，妳實在太嬌媚。那Rose呢？是不是關芝琳？！繼續爭論下去恐怕是永遠不會有結果，經過這番話題，我發現女人看女人和男人看女人還真是有蠻大的差別，說到這，忽然讓我想起好友潔西卡名言錄中的一句經典：「男人大都喜歡廉價的性感。」

眾Krug美女，oh sorry，是眾美酒，隨著兩個年份的Rauzn-Segla上場始退至幕後，省點喝的人還可靠仍留在杯中的那些些Krug玉露偶來捲起一簾悠夢。燻鴨胸寬麵在我眼裏看來倒有點像是什錦炒麵，查理布朗說這兒弱的就是麵。像我這種被雅朵Flavio寵壞的舌頭，沒有「al dente」的義大利麵都是不及格的。

這次我們品嚐的Rauzan-Segla分別是1983和1989兩個年份，我在今年年初嚐過一次'83，印象很深刻，而'89則是第一次品嚐。'89在一開始有比較多辛香料與薄荷的香氣，入口的單寧仍很強且厚重，口感複雜，有菌類、黑醋栗的香氣，搭上芥茉子醬羊排乃是上乘。'83則是以野肉味為主，口感明顯比'89圓滑，醒酒一會兒再喝更是勻細優雅，小漿果的可愛香氣溫柔地散佈至口中，單寧則是像絲絨般包覆著舌蕾。由於大家杯中仍有些'83 Rauzan-Segla，Amy提議來點cheese搭配這美酒，果真，讓Rauzan-Segla '83與cheese激起更多電光火石，此時此刻，查理布朗夫人完全陶醉在’83 Rauzan-Segla的柔情綿綿中。

這次的Krug品酒會多蒙這些好酒友的參與才得以一圓此Krug it up的美夢。酒不用說，大家都是有共識的，難得的是大家都同樣地喜歡也重視吃。如果徒有好酒，卻配上不成材的餐，對我如此好酒之徒而言，那真是一種褻瀆。

大家已決定要讓這個奢華香檳品酒會繼續lux.下去，下個主題是什麼呢？！呵呵～我們打算去見見穿著黑色蕾絲素服的一位婦人，嗯，聰明的你猜到了嗎？！:-P


今晚的Krug人氣排行榜：
第一名　Brut Champagne 1988, Krug
第二名　Brut Rose Champagne NV, Krug
第三名　Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1988, Krug
第四名　Brut Champagne Grande Cuvee NV, Krug

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About Champagne Krug
Established in 1843, Krug has specialized in solely prestige and exceptional champagnes. Dedication to quality takes precedence over quantity of production. Using traditional methods the House of Krug does not compromise time or expense with their cuvees.


Krug is the only Champagne House still fermenting all of its champagnes the age-old way-in small oak casks necessary for developing Krug's intense bouquet and complex flavor. Today, Henri, Rémi, Olivier and Caroline, the 5th and 6th generations of the Krug family, oversee every phase of production.

The taste of Krug is greatly enhanced by an exceptionally long period of maturation (6 to 8 years) in the Krug cellars before release. This requires, of course, maintaining a stock covering at least six years of sales, a practice unparalleled in Champagne.



Brut Champagne Grande Cuvee NV, Krug
One whiff and you know this is serious stuff. The aromas of baking brioche, coconut, candied citrus and leather pick up roasted coffee and grilled nuts on the palate, permeating the senses. Profound depth and complexity, offering a unique Champagne experience. Drink now through 2006. 40,000 cases made.
WS: 96

Brut Rose Champagne NV, Krug
Fabulous, from the burnished copper color to the endless finish, this rose is [i]sui generis[n]. Complex aromas of dried berries, roses and sandalwood turn to intense currant, cherry and cardamom on the palate, supported by an elegant, persuasive structure and silky texture. The multidimensional finish caps this classic beauty. Drink now through 2006. 1,200 cases made.
WS: 95

Brut Champagne 1988, Krug
Brilliant aromas of coconut, tropical fruit, candied citrus peel and spring blossoms hint at perfection, yet the structure is firm and unyielding. Then it all returns on the finish, a wave of fresh and dried berries, white truffle and hazelnut. A compelling and contemplative wine. What more could you expect from a Champagne? Best from 2005 through 2015. 5,000 cases made.
WS: 99

Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Clos du Mesnil 1988, Krug
A tightly wound thoroughbred, with complex nut and biscuit notes playing off a floral freshness. Driving it all is a racy acidity matched by a seamless elegance and innate power that lingers through the persistent ginger-tinged finish. Will age beautifully. Drink now through 2008. 1,200 cases made.
WS: 99

Chateau Rauzan-Segla 1989
The 1989 Rausan-Segla, purchased from a retailer since I did not own any, tasted slightly disjointed. My instincts suggested it was a bit cooked, probably from being exposed to high heat somewhere along its journey from Bordeaux to the United States. Based on previous tastings, the color seemed to be taking on more amber than I would have suspected. The wine revealed a sweet, black-raspberry, herbal, earthy nose, tough tannin, a silky texture, medium body, ripe fruit, and a short finish. I have consistently rated this wine in the 89-92 point range, hence the question mark.
WA: 89

Chateau Rauzan-Segla 1983
Fully mature, this seductively rich wine offers a knock-out nose of spring flowers, black fruits, smoke, and roasted herbs. Expansive and round with a velvety texture, real opulence, and low acidity, this concentrated, deliciously layered and intense wine reveals no hard edges. It represents the beginning of Rauzan-Segla's rebound in quality. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted 12/96. Wine Advocate
(No rating given)