Tasting of Bordeaux 2000 - Part 4

2003-03-31

Second Session – I
Pauillac
10:00a.m. – 12:00a.m
Friday 15th March 2003

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Reserve de la Comtesse
Les Forts de Latour
Chateau Haut-Bages Averous
Chateau Pontet Canet
Chateau Lynch Bages
Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron
Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

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～Overall～

這回來到Pauillac區，我個人最喜歡的是Pichon Lalande，因為覺得她的香氣最exotic（這個字翻成中文，似乎就沒那麼具風情），且具非常優雅的口感，細滑的單寧是溫柔地包覆舌蕾。Les Forts de Latour，也是我個人非常偏愛的一款酒，會讓人對Latour產生無限暇想。Pontet Canet則是呈現出很圓熟的特性，極為forward好喝，香氣和口感都很outgoing。Lynch Bages也很不錯，感覺非常甜美（a little too much for me）。Baron也還不錯，可是卻無深刻印象。我最不喜歡的是Reserve de la Comtesse及Haut-Bages Averous，Reserve de la Comtesse是香氣不錯但口感不好；而Haut-Bages Averous則是讓人覺得有一股弱柔感，這形容在Pauillac區的葡萄酒上，恐怕不是件好事吧！

～Tasting Notes～

Reserve de la Comtesse
Color：在同組中色澤最淡
Smell：黑醋栗、黑櫻桃香，清新感在。
Taste：酒精感稍重，口感集中，然尾韻略苦。


Les Forts de Latour
Color：與Reserve de la Comtesse相似，但略微深一點點
Smell：很濃郁的黑色漿果香氣，還有一些烤奶油小餅乾香，層次感鮮明
Taste：Amazing taste!　有著很堅實的結構與口感，香氣十分豐富迷人，充滿cherry, casis等黑色漿果與紫羅蘭香。單寧細緻，酸度宜人，very balance，尾韻很綿長，令人難忘。


Chateau Haut-Bages Averous
Color：較Reserve de la Comtesse深一些
Smell：封閉，醒酒一會兒，有蜜餞和櫻桃酒味。
Taste：單薄（尤其剛喝過Les Forts de Latour後），單寧也較軟，讓人有一種柔弱的感覺。Haut-Bages Averous為此輪Pauillac酒中最弱的一款。


Chateau Pontet Canet
Color：濃郁暗深
Smell：有一點肉味，非常不錯的櫻桃香氣，還有一些煙燻、雪茄煙絲和烤堅果香，香氣很集中且複雜。
Taste：口感中的香氣十分集中馥郁，充滿迷人的黑醋栗與黑櫻桃果香，單寧很強，the finish is fantastic. A very forward Bordeaux 2000.


Chateau Lynch Bages
Color：與Pontet Canet相比，比較接近石榴石色的感覺
Smell：圓熟的櫻桃、紅色漿果香氣，雖然有點封閉，卻有一股優雅。
Taste：集中、飽滿又甜美的口感，很誘惑人，單寧強卻滑順，充滿許多圓熟的黑色漿果香氣，然不失優雅，尾韻綿長。


Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron
Color：較Lynch Bages稍淡一些
Smell：較Lynch Bages的香氣弱且封閉些，但有一股很可愛的黑櫻桃香
Taste：很圓滑的口感，並有著不錯的酸度。However, not so impressive.


Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Color：色澤比Pontet Canet、Lynch Bages、Pichon Longueville Baron為淡
Smell：有青椒、黑色漿果和一些亞洲辛香料調的香氣
Taste：比其他酒有更多香料的味道，很集中的口感，尾韻很長。絲滑的單寧與優雅的香氣，細緻迷人。（May-Eliane de Lencquesaing提到2000年有用到一些Petit Verdot去調配，她也說到，Pichon-Lalande是一個喜愛用Petit Verdot的酒莊之一。）

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補充參考資訊：

Chateau Reserve de la Comtesse
屬Pauillac區


Les Forts de Latour
屬Pauillac區，WS:93, WA:90-92
Steven Spurrier, Decanter April 2001評：
Fabulous color, lots of grip and lots of weight, lovely blackcurranty style. Very attractive and balanced.
Wine Advocate, February 2002評：
The 2000 Forts de Latour (a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot) elicited a big "wow" from me. Potentially one of the finest Forts de Latour ever made (clearly on a qualitative par with the 1982), it is extremely concentrated, powerful, dense. This sensational second wine should be at its best in 8-10 years, and drink well for twenty-five.


Chateau Haut-Bages Averous
屬Pauillac區
Jancis Robinson, April 2002評：
Very good color, full and sweet.


Chateau Pontet Canet
屬Pauillac區，WS:93, WA:92-94
Steven Spurrier, Decanter April 2001評：
Full intense color, masses of intense, tobacco and fruit, densely packed, very ripe tannins, a bit massive; a very fine long-term Pauillac.
Wine Advocate, February 2002評：
A stunning offering is the 2000. An opaque purple color is accompanied by an impressive aromatic display of pure creme de cassis, high quality oak, sweet earth, and smoke. It is a steely, extremely long classic with noticeable tannin as well as fine concentration and power, and a 45-second finish. This broodingly backward, hulking Pontet-Canet will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+.


Chateau Lynch Bages
屬Pauillac區，WS:96, WA: 93-96
Steven Spurrier, Decanter April 2001評：
Huge color, masses of blackcurrant fruit, very ripe, elegant tannins; rich violetty elegance.
Wine Advocate, February 2002評：
A profound Lynch Bages, the 2000 is a huge, massive, concentrated effort that coats the palate with an unctuous display of black currant fruit bolstered by considerable levels of glycerin and extract. There are no hard edges, but there is considerable tannin in this beefy, full-bodied, muscular, incredibly well-balanced, pure wine. It should drink well young, yet last for twenty-five years. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. A tour de force for Lynch-Bages.


Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron
屬Pauillac區，WS:93, WA: 93-96
Steven Spurrier, Decanter April 2001評：
Full intense color, packed with very high class Cabernet fruit; very Pauillac, ripe, deep and plumy. Very successful wine.
Wine Advocate, February 2002評：
This inky purple-colored, rich, full-bodied offering boasts a gorgeous nose of wood smoke intermixed with melted licorice and creme de cassis. A classic Pauillac with an impressive texture, full body, sweet tannin, and a 40+ second finish, it is a fine effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025


Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
屬Pauillac區，WS:95, WA: 96-98
Steven Spurrier, Decanter April 2001評：
Soft and packed with voluptuous fruit, almost exotic spiciness. Will explode on palate in only a few years.
Revue du Vin de France, June 2001評：
Very classical, magnificently sensual, smooth and seductive, outstanding with its charming notes of red and black fruit, toast and cocoa. Round and mellow with a fine and elegant tannic structure.
Wine Advocate, February 2002評：
A dramatic effort, the 2000 is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% Petit Verdot. Only 40% of the harvest made it into the grand vin. Its dense purple color is followed by fabulous aromas of creme de cassis intermixed with roasted espresso, violets, and toast. It has a superb entry on the palate, full body, an opulent texture, silky tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This stunning wine will provide unreal drinking early on, but age for three decades. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.

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圖片說明：最左邊的即是Pichon-Lalande的May-Eliane de Lencquesaing，雖然年紀很大，仍是活力充沛，講話中氣十足。